Changdeokgung Palace - now this is a palace!

September 21, 2010

Happy Chuseok! It is Korean Thanksgiving and I am grateful to have gotten much of the day off. My boss and her son went to her mother-in-laws house (her husband is on a business trip). She didn’t seem too excited and said she decided not to take me because the woman is scary. I bet a lot of people can say that about their mother-in-law! Again, communication is tricky, but I think she was saying that traditionally after a woman marries she has little contact with her blood family and it seems that tradition lingers in a less strict way. She has also complained that as a wife earning no income her husband tells her what to do. That she has no power. A problem of the ages...

It has been pouring rain and I jumped out of my skin when I heard a thunderclap that must have been right above me! It’s been raining for 4 days – you’d think the sky would’ve dried up by now. As I write this my feet are still squishy in my day hikers and sure very pruney. I braved the weather though and headed to the main Joseon Palace, Gyeongbokgung, built in 1395. This was more what I imagined a Joseon palace to be. It is much grander than Changdeokgung. I actually first hit the National Palace Museum, which was helpful because then I could imagine more what life was life in the palace complex. I filled up my 2GB memory card on my camera today!

I’ve included a picture of the river you cross to enter the palace complex in keeping with Feng Shui. It also finally clicked that behind the throne the paintings is always of mountains in order to complete the Feng Shui notion of the river in the foreground and the mountains in the background. This palace also has actual mountains as the backdrop. The courtyard in front of the main throne hall is fascinating. The stones were rough-hewn in order to reduce glare. The small stone animal markers were where officials would line up according to rank. The center footpath was reserved for the king and even today the center entrance is roped off. There are rings drilled into some floor stones to stabilize a tent that would shield the king and officials from the elements. King Sejong started his meetings at 3 in the morning! Wonder what time he went to bed! Did he take naps? :)

I only saw one building that had glass – mostly the buildings have doors/windows that allow for airflow. Some of the floors are also heated! The residence for the king and queen were separate, showing (in my mind) that the marriages are political ones not love ones. The love stories I’ve heard of the kings always involved a concubine.

Much of the complex and artifacts are copies because of the attacks and fires of history. It’s no surprise that I saw in the museum several talismans to ward against fire. I’ve included one here – it’s the grouping of 5 silver octagons. Empress Myeongseong was assasinated here by the Japanese in 1895 because she was seeking Russia’s support in halting Japanese aggression. And of course, the Russians lost a war to the Japanese in 1905.

In the museum I also found the cool tags. These wood tags gave permission to be out past curfew, gave permission to attend night court, showed that the king was calling people to the palace, conscripted you, and allowed your horses to be confiscated by the king. The police chief also had a set to identify himself – no silver star for them.

The picture of two jars and a coin are to hold the placenta of the king. The inner jar holding the placenta is placed in the larger jar and then placed in a monument.

The queen would wear several hairpins for ceremonial occasions. I’ve included a picture of some of them. Music was very important for ceremonies and the instruments were all made of natural materials in order to be harmonious.

The complex seemed to be unending – or maybe that was just the rain wearing me down. It must be even more beautiful in sunny weather. :) The grounds weren’t manicured much, but I don’t know if that’s how it always was. I had a wonderful time and felt like I had the palace all to myself.

On the way back to the apartment I picked up a couple of candy bars so I have a little comfort food for the week. :)

September 23, 2010

I moved out of the family’s apartment. It was an upsetting morning, but I am relieved not to be treated so badly and to feel free again. I’ll fill you in more later.