From Cremation in Bali to River Towns of Borneo

November 5, 2010

As I write this, “FIRE IN THE HOLE” is being repeated over and over and over again in this hot and sticky internet/game store.

Apparently my brain is growing! There’s a new study showing that amongst other things travel is good for a healthy brain and it really makes it grow. Just from what I’ve seen the last few days my brain must have had a growth spurt!

I have spent 3 days in Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo) and everything about this island is different from Bali. I arrived in Banjarmasin from Bali in the late afternoon and by the time I went to explore it was dark out. I didn’t know the area and was getting lots of attention and I wasn’t sure what that meant so I didn’t venture far. I was getting a lot of hellos from men, but also from women and children so that made me feel a bit better.

In the bright sun of the next day, I explored. There are few tourists so I feel like a celebrity walking down the street. Not only do I get stares, energetic waves from kids, and “hellos,” but many have asked for pictures with me. Apparently, white people are thought to bring good luck and having a picture with one helps the luck pass on. That’s also why a woman touched my arm as I walked by.

The dominate religion here is Islam so temples have been replaced with mosques and I get to hear the meditative sound of the call to prayer again. Instead of the Bible in US hotel rooms you are given a prayer rug. I am dressing more modestly here, but actually most of my usual clothes are acceptable. One of the guides here told me that Indonesians travel to Bali to see “naked women.” So I guess some Indonesians like to see the bikinis and tank tops, but just don’t want it in their backyard – or maybe they wouldn’t mind, but others would.

Banjarmasin is a big city and the main attraction is the river life. It calls itself the “Venice of Asia,” but I dare say Venice would be a bit offended by the comparison. About the only similarity is the color of the water – brown. I did two boat tours along the canal. The first was in the early evening as those who live along the river were bathing and washing clothes. The river is used for bathing, cooking, drinking, cleaning and going the bathroom. Children filled the water as they played and they screamed and waved at us. A couple climbed on board and then did a cannonball. Adults were enthusiastic too and would wave a give a big smile. Those who live along the river tend to work in the markets and do not have a lot of money. The homes are wood shacks, some in better repair than others. I wish I could post pictures, but this computer has the speed of a 1990 computer. Hopefully soon….

I woke at 4:30am for the next tour! We went to a floating market where, mostly women, paddle low canoe like boats and either buy or sell. There are dozens of boats grouped together and they follow the current along the riverbank. Vegetables and greens are mostly sold, but I also saw rice, chicken, cake, snacks, fish and eggs. The colors, lines and chatter were wonderful to see. The market continues until about 9am.

From the floating market I headed to the airport and am now in Pangkalan Bun, a gateway city for the Tanjung Puting National Park and the orangutans. The view from the plane was beautiful. Except near the airports, the forest spanned to the horizon. No streets, no power lines, and no small niches cleared away. It just looked untouched by humans – though some I’m sure are living in there. I’m still trying to arrange a tour into the park, but it’s expensive to do it alone. It’s the low season so I’m crossing my fingers some people appear who don’t mind sharing a boat.

My last day is Bali I saw the cremation of Puri Agung Peliatan. It was a huge affair and the event even made the front page of The Jakarta Post. This wasn’t just a big affair for Bali, but for all of Indonesia. The king died in August, but it took this long to prepare everything. I’ve included links below if you’re so inclined. I waited 2 hours for the ceremony to begin and then watched for another 4 (and it still wasn’t over!).

Apparently many deceased Balinese Hindus were unearthed and cremated on this very auspicious day. Many cannot afford the cremation ceremony right away and/or they want to wait for an auspicious day.

Prior to the cremation a procession took places and hundreds of men volunteered to carry the various structures. There was a huge tower (25 meters) that held the coffin. There was also a bull which would later house the body for cremation. Then there was a dragon, which symbolizes the ruler’s worldly attachments as well as a helpful guide into the afterlife. The dragon was burned alongside of the bull.

It took about hours to get the cremation area set up. The men had to carry the bull onto a high stone platform that had poles at the corners and a “roof.” They had to get the angle just right and this took about one hour. You could see the sweat and exertion on the men’s faces. At different times there was music and dancing as well as small processions of people and offerings that circled the bull three times. The coffin also made its walk. After platforms were secured to the bull the body was slid out of the coffin and into the back of the bull, which was just cut open. Two religious leaders and a few others made their offering and rituals. Items were laid over the body. The coffin returned to its place on the tower.

During this whole process guests are everywhere. Almost nowhere seemed off limits so even when the circular processions were made guests had to make way. There were two women who came in on thrones and they were placed amidst the crowds. I’m sure they weren’t too pleased to have their photos taken with some of the folks who asked (i.e. a tourist wih long hair and a mesh see-through shirt). These royal women each had an attendant to fan them and entertain them.

After hours of waiting the moment of lighting the bull and dragon actually arrived. Simple matches were used and within seconds huge flames leapt up. A metal box had been placed beneath the bull to catch the body and therefore hold the ashes. Unfortunately, at one point the king’s two feet were sticking out and were charred. A gruesome sight, but also gruesome was watching a male attendant push the body back into the box with a long rod. He had to do that several times.

Seeing the skeletons of the bull and dragon made the scene look somber and deadly. Most of the day and even during most of the cremation the even seemed like a celebration rather than a somber occasion. But for me watching the bull and dragon burn was a reminder of the king’s death.

Throughout the day I also made sure to say goodbye to my new friends and I even visited the cantina again. It was sad to say goodbye, but I also felt ready to move on. I really haven’t been lonely on this trip so far and the few instances have been brief. I keep meeting such wonderful people, but I’m also just enjoying time to myself. By breaking out of my usual routine I’m meeting fascinating people, including puppeteers and pearl farmer entrepreneurs. I’m sure I’ll have more rough patches on my trip, but I’m feeling really good and glad to have made this trip.

Bali Prepares for Cremation

Report on Cremation (with pictures)