A Taste of Balinese Culture

October 25, 2010

I have had a wonderful few days getting to know the Balinese culture and motoring around. Driving the motor bike around here was actually much better than on the other island because the roads were better and the bike was better. I visited several temples and an area that had reliefs carved into a small cliff. I walked through rice paddies and you can see one of the farmers here. A couple of the temples had sacred pools in them and one was a flurry of activity. Tirta Empul was my favorite temple because of all the people wading into the water to make offerings and receive the blessing from the water. People waded into the water fully clothed. There is a specific kind of dress the believers where to the temple. Women wear a sarong and long sleeved shirt with a sash. The men also wear a sarong and shirt with a wrap around their head. It was a joyous occasion rather than a solemn one so you heard lots of laughs. And the water was cold so some young people had to be coaxed in by their parents. It was a communal type of experience and one of my favorite experiences here. The full moon is what has encouraged the flurry of Balinese Hindu activity on the island.

The other temples were cool to see because of the architecture and sculptures. Much of the specific history of these temples is unknown, but they date from 4th to 11^th centuries. Ganesha is a prominent god here and he represents wisdom and education. Many of the temples have dragons at the entrance to protect the worshipers.

I tried to make my way to a palace that is in a town about an hour away from Ubud. I made it to the town and with the help of many locals got fairly close to the palace, but never could find it. The rains had started and for awhile the rain drops were pelting my eyes – ouch! I also didn’t want to have to travel back to Ubud in the dark so I just turned around. I put on my bright blue poncho and whizzed back to Ubud. I got back just in time because the rains came down even harder and lasted for a couple of hours more. The pathway in front of my room was like a river.

Yesterday, I took a Balinese cooking class with two other women. We had a lot of fun touring the market and then making 5 dishes. The lunch was delicious – just thinking of it is making me hungry. My favorite dishes were a soup with made that had chicken balls in it and a chicken satay. We mixed ground meat with sauce and coconut and then molded it over a stick. We also made tuna with sauce that was wrapped in banana leaf before being steamed and grilled. The saffron rice was delicious too! We made a steamed salad and then the dessert, which was a green pancake filled with coconut and brown sugar. I have the recipes so maybe when I get home I’ll have a Balinese night, but I can’t promise it will be as good as yesterday.

I met an American woman in the afternoon and we decided to go to a Balinese dance performance. The dancing was so beautiful and the costumes were a delight for the eyes. The dance moves were very angular and the fingers and toes were an important part of the ensemble. The position of the hand and the slight movement of individual fingers were highly orchestrated. The expression of the eyes also played a large part. The different dances expressed various stories. One was inspired by the bird of paradise and another was of marching warriors. Not surprisingly, one dance was inspired by a wave in the middle of the ocean and how its nature changes. From what I’ve seen and heard, all children learn the dance. I happened upon a group of them practicing. The girls and boys were in separate areas. All the islands have their own cultures, dances and instruments.

Since I have been quite indulgent the last couple of days I am laying low money-wise today. I’m trying to decide my next steps of either travel or trying to find some work. It’s inexpensive here, but for an unemployed traveler with only a bit of savings it still adds up. Send some good luck my way!

After writing the above section I did some internet strategizing and then had a great time hanging out at my new favorite Mexican restaurant. I enjoy talking with the owners and also the other customers. I met one woman from LA who has been here a couple of years. She was very helpful with guidance of various sorts and I think we’ll get together one of these days. She has to do a “Singapore run” to renew her visa so we’ll talk next week. Hanging out at the restaurant is actually quite productive. :) I found out that the Balinese have a caste system of 3 levels and ones name is determined by your level. There is a certain way you are meant to speak to people of different castes. There are also border conflicts between villages.

On the way back to my guest house I talked to a couple of new friends I’ve made at a nearby satay stand. One of them offered to take me up a hill that has nice views. So I postponed my plans of having a refreshing shower and we headed out. It was a nice walk and it took us through a lovely quiet temple (they really are everywhere). I was surprised at how quickly we could leave the hustle and bustle of Ubud and be surrounded by so much lush greenery. The sun was setting as we were making our way out so I was trying to hurry to avoid the darkness – knowing my clumsy predisposition. He was quite a distance behind me and laughed at how fast I was walking. He said, “If I see someone walking fast I think they must have to use the toilet.” Talk about a good belly laugh!