Still Dreaming of Nusa Lembogan

October 18, 2010

It has been an incredible last few days and now that I’m back in Sanur I can write more and upload pictures. Some of the pictures relate to the last two blogs. The Nusa Lembogan pictures begin with the shot of people getting off of the public boat. I apologize for the lengthy post, but I hope you’ll find it worth it or feel free to scan and take coffee breaks! I came into Sanur on the public boat this morning and I still feel the rocking of the waves! This boat had a narrow ramp on the port side so it wasn’t such an ordeal getting in – easy compared to the other one.

I’m still on a high from the diving and just can’t get over how the reef and all its life just seemed endless. I forgot to mention before how noisy it is on the reef. Several species of fish eat the coral so you constantly hear this crunching munching sound. You then see the fish poop out grains of sand – and poof we have sandy beaches. Don’t know if you want that image in your head the next time you hit the beach.

On my third day on Nusa Lembogan I decided to start exploring what was above the sea. I rented a push bike (aka a bicycle) and headed out. Within 5 minutes I was drenched in sweat and I was giving it my best Lance Armstrong try, but I couldn’t make it up the big hills. So I turned around and exchanged it for a motor bike. Now I had opted out of that before in part because it was more expensive (about $7/day), but more importantly I’d never driven one. So needless to say I was a bit nervous and I think the woman who rented it to me was also when I asked how it worked. But off I went – a bit slow and teetery, but this time I made it up the hills and mountains. They also drive on the left side of the road so that was another thing for me to concentrate on. The closest thing to an accident happened when I was absentmindedly on the right side (no scooters were about) and when a scooter approached I steered left, but at the same time accidentally accelerated. Oops! Fortunately, I just looked ridiculous rather than injured. I loved getting lost along the roads (although bike is heavy to turn around). Most of the locals were very friendly and would smile and say hello. The two most common questions I got as I whizzed by (or rather snailed along) was “Where are you from?” and “Where are you going?”

After some missed turns and the help of some locals I found my way to Dream Beach. It is a lovely small sandy beach that has a modest resort overlooking it. This beach is the one surrounded by small cliffs. It is also a good spot for surfing, which the island in general is. I lathered my sunscreen on. Luckily, I bought a tankini for modesty’s sake (and less harassment) because as it is I can hardly reach some parts of my back. Anyway, I then leisurely walked in the surf and a strong wave threw a rock into my lower shin and cut it – ouch! Thankfully still no crazy glue necessary. I then braved the waves and snorkeled for a bit. I met some travelers from some islands east of Japan and it was fun to watch them playing and posing in the surf. I relaxed at the resort for a bit and had lunch with a nice Australian woman (most of the tourists seem to be from there, and specifically Sydney). She came to see me off on the motor bike. I told her I would take for her a ride, but I didn’t trust myself enough. I think she was okay with that. :) On my way out I took some more wrong turns, but found a friendly cow. We had a nice chat.

Next I wanted to head along the coast and over the bridge that connects N.L. to another smaller island. I was in a small village, but still having trouble finding my way and 4 young boys offered to show me the way. At first I thought they were just pointing me in the right direction, but they ended up taking me the whole way. They had 2 motor bikes between them and were much better drivers then me. At one point they started going very fast and were waving for me to catch up, but I think they got the hint that I wasn’t that confident. My jaw dropped when I saw the bridge (you can see the picture here). It looks like a narrow pedestrian bridge, but locals were motoring over it swiftly. To twist my nerves even more the wood slats were not nailed to the foundation of the bridge. They had square holes in them and were laid down with a board going perpendicular so when you drove the slats moved and made a banging sound. As I went over it I concentrated very hard on not hitting anyone or going over the side. The power of the mind – I made it safely across. From there I randomly drove and wound up a mountain. I saw some dry earth farming and more seaweed farming. There were a few cows and pigs along the way, but unfortunately since the locals can’t afford fencing they tie their animal to a stake. If a family had a cow they only had one and pretty much the same went for pigs.

When I got to the top of the mountain I was on a dirt trail and was barely moving forward when I got nervous at the sight of huge rocks in my path. With that the bike fell over. And wouldn’t you know it hit the exact same spot the rock did earlier at the beach! So now I have a big welt. This seems to be my pattern traveling. I always manage to acquire bruises as I stumble and slip along. Knock on wood that it’s only manageable bruises that I get! Anyway, not only did the bike topple then, but within 5 minutes it went over 2 more times. Again, it was when I was pretty much at a standstill and trying to turn it on a rocky downhill. This time I managed to move out of the way. So out of my hours of riding my 3 big oopsies happened within 5 minutes of each other and with no witnesses (yea!). Back down the mountain I went and I ran into (no, not literally – give me some credit! LOL ) a couple also traveling. Their bike had gotten a flat tire and she walked quite a distance for help. I’m sure this happens frequently because the less traveled roads were very scary and had massive potholes. There was actually very little flat surface left. As a result my bum is a bit sore today! Anyway, the couple said that a teenager had just taken them to “the blue lagoon” and they said it really was worth it. So I asked him to take me next (he had actually offered before, but I didn’t know if it was worth it and didn’t want to waste the money). I went on his bike and we zipped around so much that I know I never would have found this place. It was definitely worth the $0.50 and the time. The lagoon is too dangerous to swim, but the striking cliffs create a crescent shaped lagoon filled with bright light blue water. I believe the water is that color because it’s filled with so many air bubbles. As you can see I took a picture with my guide. I think he was very flattered that I asked him to take one with me. He was very nice and spoke English well (learned it at school). After that I headed back over the bridge and finished going all the way around the island (continuing the tradition my sister and I have in Maine of circling the islands, though we usually walk).

During my exploring I was really able to see the work life on the island. You can see from the pictures that people have to wade into the water, sometimes up to their chests, to haul supplies off of the boats. You see people balancing things on their head (there is a cloth they put on their heads first) and shoulders. I saw women more frequently hauling stuff then men. Their culture sure doesn’t see women as weak! It is just backbreaking, labor intensive work and work that could so easily if they had the money for docks and machines. I never did figure how they get motorbikes and trucks onto the islands.

The seaweed farms are also all done in a way that could have been down before the Industrial Revolution. The boats they take out have no motors and are pushed along with long poles. You can see in one of the pictures how the seaweed is planted in squares. Men do the farming work in the water, but women (I also saw 3 kids) worked the seaweed once it was on land and had to be dried and threshed (it seemed). You can see how the seaweed is laid out on tarps to dry. I learned that chicks like to eat the seaweed! Luckily, the drying seaweed didn’t have a strong odor. Once it’s ready the seaweed is sold on Bali and from there to Japan. It turns out it is used more for cosmetics. The homes of the seaweed farmers were quite poor and right along the beach. I did see nicer, sturdier homes in other places.

On the island trash is frequently burned so at night the scent fills the air. I also saw tons of trash along the beach and floating in the water. On a couple of the dives we rolled into the trashy areas (somehow the bottom was clean). I saw piles of trash heaps near the beach and I’m sure other islands do it so when storms come it just washes out. I also saw huge piles of plastic bottles – not sure why they are separated.

The island is pretty dark at night (especially when they lose power, which happened twice for me) so it was handy to have my headlamp. I must say that has come in so handy. I use it to read in bed when I don’t have a bedside light and it was great in the hostels so I didn’t have to disturb my roommates as much. And walking the roads of N.L. at night it was imperative. So if you ever travel like this I recommend bringing one. Just get over looking silly. :)

The conditions of the accommodations have varied in Bali and N.L. as the price and location have varied. For the budget places the prices vary based on if you have AC, fan only, or hot water. The fan has been very comfortable so I’ve gone with that. My first place in Sanur had hot water, but otherwise I’ve gone without. During the heat of the day it’s refreshing, but in the morning I’m gasping for breath and tightening all my muscles. The bathrooms are also amusing. My second guest house in N.L. had no sink so when I had to brush my teeth I just spit on the tile floor. Very economical! Apparently the non-tourist hotels in remote areas on Indonesia have no bathroom so at least I have something. The rooms are dimly lit with sparse light bulbs. They must be low wattage because of the cost of electricity.

After a couple of meals the other day my stomach was in a bit of pain. It mostly passed by the next evening, but since I could still feel something was off I had an idea. After a yummy plate of spaghetti (something simple and familiar was just what I needed) I asked the waiter for a glass of vodka. I figured the alcohol might kill whatever was in my stomach. Now mind you the vodka cost more than my dinner so this was a splurge for medical purposes. My spaghetti was about $3.25 and my vodka was about $4. The waiter asked if I wanted it mixed with anything and I declined. I didn’t explain, but I figured I wanted to make sure exactly how much “medicine” I was getting. He asked if I wanted ice – again no and again a look of perplexity. My stomach is much better and I’m sure it is thanks to my cure. Maybe I should have a shot of vodka after each meal as a preventive measure. LOL

A few more random thoughts... I spent hours, probably days in total, searching for crabs under the seaweed in Maine when I was a child. I still do it and it is still requires a lot of patience and digging. Here though the crabs sit on the rocks and are so easy to find. I saw a couple even swimming along the surface. Go figure!

I hate bargaining, but I really need to practice it more and improve. That will have to be one of my short-term goals.

Now I’m back in Sanur as I wait for my visa extension. Tomorrow I might try to explore some new areas.

Oh, if you are wondering about one of the food pictures it is fried banana with chocolate sauce – very good.

All right, my fingers are tired from typing and I’m sure your eyes are tired from reading so I’ll end here. Wish you all the best.