The Pleasures and Pain of Laos and Cambodia

February 4, 2011

Happy Chinese New Year! I’ve celebrated the coming year of the rabbit (by chance my animal) in a Cambodian beach town, Sihanoukville. The main celebrations I saw were many beach goers and the lighting of little fireworks by individuals.

Thank you for your patience as I had trouble finding the hours to write and the patience to deal with the viruses on public computers. One night a week ago I spent 1 ½ hours downloading and running Avast Anti-virus to then find out the USB ports didn’t work. So I hope you’ll forgive I didn’t start over on another computer that night. Enough bemoaning….

The days that have passed since my last update have been wonderful and have brought me into warmer weather and a new country, Cambodia. But I’ll start with where I left in Vang Vieng – the tubing town in Laos. My last full day in the Vang Vieng area was backed with wonderful natural wonders. Ben and I rented a motorbike and hit the dirt roads in search of the authentic blue lagoon rather than the two knockoffs. With the tips of others we found in no problem and decided to explore the cave before swimming in the lagoon – more like a small stretch of the river. The cave was immense and had wonderful rocks to climb all over – some were steep and high enough to get my adrenaline going. You can also see in the first picture that the cave brought out my true angelic nature. :)

After immersing ourselves in the cave for a couple of hours we decided to stop spelunking and hit the lagoon. The waters were chilly, but refreshing and set in a relaxed setting. Now if you can recall from my last blog that I had a minor shoulder injury from ziplining and accidentally launching into a back flip that did not end with my feet going in the water first. The muscle hurt, but more like a really sore muscle from working out and after two days of rest if was a bit better. So I, in my brilliance, saw an easy rope swing going into the lagoon. I didn’t feel any specific moment of hurting my shoulder more, but once in the water and trying to swim I found it was too painful to use my arm. Now I will put it out there that apparently I am lame with pain so an Olympian in the same position would have raced the butterfly and set records. Moving in anyway hurt – an injury is definitely a good reminder of how connected our muscles are and how easy it is to take feeling good for granted. So I spent the rest of the afternoon lying down while Ben played ball with some other visitors. I kept feeling an insect fly onto my arm and kept brushing it away. After a few minutes of brushing off the persistent fly I painfully turned my head and found a furry spider intent on befriending me. You can see his portrait with his cute smile. He found a new home in the bushes – away from my arm.

On the bike ride back we tried a new route that we thought was just a short loop back to town. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case and my shoulder felt every bump on the gravel, rocky road. We also came to a couple of toll bridges. Some are free – well all are free for Laotians – but not two of the ones we came across. The toll isn’t a lot of money, but you start to feel nickel and dimed and it seems to be private people setting up the tolls. And the tourist versus the local price gets very frustrating. After crossing one bridge and then being stopped to pay we crossed back over the bridge and Ben drove the motor bike through the shallow waters. At another crossing the town bridge, which looked fine, was closed off and we were to pay to go over a smaller makeshift bridge. These waters were too deep for us to ride through so I wasn’t sure what we were going to do. Next thing I knew Ben gunned it after the rope was lowered for a local coming through. So off we went – outlaws! You can see a picture of the free bridge – TINY! – that we crossed to leave Vang Vieng initially.

The scenery of this area is beautiful with mountains and plains, but the quick loop took over an hour and we just got in as it got dark.

We had a lot of trouble deciding which town/area to hit next. Should we go to the 7km that you take a boat ride through? Should we visit the Plain of Jars? We decided to at least get to the capital Vientiane the next day as it would be on the way to the cave anyway. And in the end we skipped both of these spots. Vientiane was a much nicer city than I expected. Most SE Asian cities are dirty, polluted and unappealing. But Vientiane was well organized, clean, attractive and prosperous looking. It was razed by the Siamese in the 19^th century so what you see today is fairly new. Unfortunately, the prices reflected that it was a bustling city, but what can you do…

The night we arrived we walked a river walk along the Mekong and since we only had one day to explore the city we got up early and hopped on a moto. We visited a temple built in the early 19^th century and one of the few survivors of the city’s destruction. The most moving stop was at the CORE exhibit hall. CORE is a government organization that helps Laotians with physical disabilities, including those resulting from UXOs (unexploded ordnance – i.e. an old bomb). During America’s war with Vietnam, the US secretly bombed Laos for nine years. I’ve mentioned this before, but now have learned more, including that tourists should be warned about staying on the path. In Cambodia you see some warnings. Laos had more than 2 million tons of ordnance dropped on it between 1964 and 1973 making it the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. I was told more bombs were dropped here than by all of the Allies in WWII – can that be true?! The bombs usually used and causing the biggest problem now are the cluster bombs (aka “bombies”). They had a large casing filled with hundreds of small bombs that would scatter in order to cause more damage. Not all of the balls (ordnances) exploded and at times the whole casing didn’t open, but they are still live. The main problem now seems to be that children play with them or actively try to collect them for the worth of the scrap metal. The purchase of UXO metal is illegal, but the blackmarket is thriving and most families are so desperate that the children want to earn some money. Adults also tinker with bombs they find. Homes in the areas with UXOs use the scrap metal as stilts, candle holders, pots, cups, etc. And the rains can unearth bombies. There was one story recounted of a woman whose kitchen fire happened to be over a covered bombie and the heat exploded the bomb and she and her daughter were severely injured. Over 20,000 people have been killed or injured since the war ended due to UXOs.

The exhibit was very well done and hosted by a very gracious and surprisingly chipper young man. There are several documentaries you can choose to watch and we watched an Australian one about an organization removing or safely exploding UXOs. Unfortunately, the funding and number of people trained will make this job last generations. I found it interesting that of all the documentaries available, most made abroad, none were made by Americans. The US government has given money to help remove UXOs, but it clearly is a drop in the bucket of what is needed. I also learned at the exhibit that a movement had been pushing for making cluster bombs illegal and it finally succeeded. In 2008, an international agreement was signed in Oslo banning their use. Laos was the second country to sign it – after Norway. The ban only went into effect on Aug. 1, 2010. The exhibit was free so CORE earns money through donations and sales. They sell several items promised to give you good karma. We bought some absolutely delicious good karma ice cream.

After that sobering visit we headed to a more whimsical place – Buddha Park. An eccentric man decided to build many concrete statues reflecting his ideas of Buddhism and Hinduism. It was fun to explore and the pieces were more impressive than many I’ve seen at the temples. You can see the picture of me lying next to the reclining Buddha. There were two monks looking on, but fortunately they laughed as I awkwardly and painfully laid down in the grass (my shoulder was still getting in the way). Either end of the park had a monumental statue. The pyramid-like one represents heaven while the sphere one is hell. You could climb on both, but interestingly enough hell was more easily accessible and had more places to explore!

We made a quick stop to try to get food and supplies and one shop was owned/run by a man and his young son (about 11). The son was very excited to practice the little English he knew and beamed with pride. I bought my lotion and went to another store. He came looking for me and with blushed checks gave me a small bottle of water. A very sweet gesture. The water tasted so good. We made another stop - this time at a glitzy temple that was a bit Vegas-like. A local teenage girl was there with her transvestite friend (boy dressed as a girl). They walked a bit and again some different social norms (was it the norm?) come out of no where and surprise me. In this case an older monk walked by the transvestite and tapped her on the bottom! Seemed very unmonklike to me, but I'm just a foreigner.

On the way back we took a detour to try to get onto the Friendship Bridge with Thailand (the capital is on the border), but our plans took an unexpected turn when we ran out of gas. This had happened one other time as we headed to the gas station immediately after picking up the moto, but there the timing was perfect. The moto died as we turned onto the station’s drive. This was not so lucky. We were about 2km away from the gas station so started walking and pushing the bike. Luck did come our way – maybe it was the good karma ice cream – in that a little shop sold bottled gas. It was totally overpriced, but it got us to the gas station and saved us a heap of time.

We got back to the hotel in time to indulge in some Indian food before taking a sleeper bus (love those things!) to the Four Thousand Islands. These islands are scattered throughout the river in the very southern tip of Laos. From some areas you can see Cambodia and at one point I was in Cambodian waters. We stayed on Don Khon, but also could take the bridge to nearby Don Det. Each island had local villages, but also developed rustic tourist spots. We rented bikes one day and had quite a ride on rocky paths, dirt paths, and some smooth paved roads. We visited a striking waterfall that had lots of separate falls coming together. From here we searched for a beach. The beaches on the island are not the kind you imagine, but we did find a sandy area that we could walk down some rocks and swim. We actually met a lovely couple from Guernsey Island, UK and later chartered a boat together to spot the Irawaddy dolphins. It was fun to see several of these endangered dolphins careening through the water. They were at a distance, but it was cool because we would hear them breath and then spot them.

That night we rode our bicycles to Don Det, which is a small adventure in and of itself. At times the land along the side of the path drops of few feet into the water or there are sketchy bridges to cross. After about a 20 minute ride we arrived in the tourist area and had dinner and arranged a waterfall tour with the other couple for the next day. They showed us a restaurant that has spectacular views of the sunset and we happened to hit an especially good one. We found ourselves back there the next night too.

Darkness had come in by the time we headed back to our island, but fortunately our new friends lent us a headlamp. The stars were incredible, but didn’t help light our way. It was a real test of teamwork as we peddled with one ray of light shining a small area of the immense blackness. I was very nervous as the road (we didn’t do the dirt path this time) was covered in gravel and rocks and I just pictured myself tumbling over. I’m proud to say we made it back without any tumbling. :)

The largest waterfall in SE Asia is on the mainland not far from our island so we headed there the next morning. It was expansive and like the previous one had several falls that came together as well as the massive section. It also had fantastic massive rocks from climbing around. The bamboo structure that looks like a bridge is actually a fish trap (used in the wet season only it seems). We were hesitant to cross it at first, but then saw this man cross it and he assured us it was fine. We also were asked to move from one area so a photo shot of two monks could commence. That tickled me.

I had loads of laundry to do, but kept pushing it aside for more fun tasks. So after the waterfall, we played Frisbee on the Don Det beach. I’ve gotten lots of practice in during the last few weeks and it’s been a blast. I think I even improved a bit. We also ran into two Dutch women we met in Luang Prabang and they had played the game I’d seen in Vietnam. It’s a spring toy with “feathers” that you kick with your heel – or foot if you’re as novice as me. We had great fun, but never could manage to have all 5 people kick it in one go. Next time…

We all went to the restaurant for the sunset again. The food took over an hour to come. It always takes awhile, but this was extreme. Sometimes they have to run to the market after you order. At least you know the food is fresh! It was also Ben’s birthday so I stuck some matches (in the absence of candles) on his mound of rice and we did a quick round of singing. Later in the night I headed back to Don Khon alone as Ben continued to celebrate his birthday at the Reggae Bar. I had had a wicked headache and wasn’t feel well – in addition to me having problems staying up late after a busy day – so off I went with my headlamp (yes, I planned ahead!). I took the dirt path along the water this time and just went slow. Again, I made it without any tumbling.

Next stop was Cambodia. We hit a small town Ban Lung in the Ratanakiri region. It’s in the northeast and is supposed to have some wonderful landscapes. We didn’t have time to see too much, but we did see some more waterfalls. We were able to climb onto the rocks under one waterfall (the one where you see two falls) and sit under the gushing water. The pressure was quite intense and when it came to exit the water made you do a belly flop rather than a smooth dive. You can see our moto was quite retro and Ben tried to add his own ‘80s look to finish off the vibe.

We also visited a crater lake and had fun playing in the water with some local guys. Of course when Ben went to get something out the bag a couple of them didn't totally behave themselves. Local women swim in clothes so seeing me - even in a tankini - a guess it quite exciting. One guy did stop his friend, as I was trying to also stop him, from trying to splash water down the front of my top! I tried just stay in the water most of the time. But they were so giggly in general it was hysterical. They pushed each other and jumped around.

My first impressions of Cambodia were very positive as the people in this town were especially friendly and that hasn’t changed as I’ve gone elsewhere. Considering the tragedies of their recent history it is quite remarkable. As you look around you do notice that there are fewer people than you’d expect above a certain age – maybe 40ish. The Khmer Rouge genocide just decimated the population. Out of a population of around 8 million, 1.7 million were killed (I’ve seen larger estimates too). They lost about 20% of their population. Actually, I just looked online and by 2005 75% of the Cambodian population was too young to have lived through the genocide period.

In Phnom Penh we visited two sights from the genocide era (1975-1979). The first was one of the killing fields. Mass graves were built and the concave holes in the ground are graves that have since been dug up. The bones of those unearthed are now in the large memorial that was fairly recently built. You can see cracks and holes in skulls from where they were hit with various tools. The genocide was largely carried out by low budget means. Bullets were too valuable to use often so beating and suffocation were common. There’s one area where you can see teeth, bones and clothes still emerging from the ground. It was a sobering visit, but I was actually disappointed in the exhibit and documentary. The doc shown is from 1985 and was horribly done. And the boards of information are often repetitive and sloppy looking. Visitors pay, but the money doesn’t seem to go back into the museum. The site and museum is actually leased by a Japanese company so maybe they just don’t have the personal motivation to do a better job. It’s a real shame, but the impact is really lost.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is housed in a school that was converted by the Khmer Rouge into a prison and torture center. Many of the victims brought here were later taken to the killing fields I saw. Again, the exhibit did not have the impact it could, but the original barbed wire, torture devices, cell blocks, photographs and personal accounts were intense. One photo showed a man face, well part of it. His nose and other chunks had been cut off with an axe. I haven’t seen anything like that before. War crimes trials began a few years ago in coordination with the UN and some have even concluded. Only one former leader shows any remorse and admits any guilt, Duch. He was sentenced to 35 years in jail last year.

Other parts of Phnom Penh were lovely and lighthearted. It’s a fairly enjoyable city with lots of delicious food. There’s also a royal palace and silver pagoda that were impressive. I couldn’t figure out why the pagoda had that name until I walked inside and saw a sign that the floor is covered in silver tiles. The few that were showing were in need of polishing.

By the end of the day I was emotionally and physically spent. The next morning we caught a bus to the beach for a few days before Ben headed to Indonesia. The beaches are nice and though there is some trash it isn’t as bad as Indonesia. The waters are warm and the sand soft - great for more Frisbee playing. I’ve loved the time to just lay and read my book, write in my journal, and drink shakes (mostly coffee or pineapple). We did a day tour to the islands. The snorkeling was terrible. The gear was unusable, but the visibility was bad so we didn’t miss much. But Bamboo Island (didn’t see any bamboo) was a nice stopover for a few hours. And lunch was a nice grilled barracuda.

We also went to a beach a few kilometers away from where we are staying at Serendipity beach. Our spot is more developed and has a party vibe. It also has a mostly young 20s crowd. Otres beach is relaxed and has a hippie, alternative vibe. It’s also less developed so the beach is quieter and more pleasant. Our area does have terrific food – and a variety. I’ve started eating a hot dog daily – shocking I know! But it’s $0.75 and tasty. Might have to get one when I’m done…. There’s also a traditional dish, amok, that I really like. It can be made with tofu, vegetables and meats, but the sauce has a nice creamy texture with a hint of coconut and other flavors. On the beach they do nice BBQ and you get a lot of food for $3. How am I ever going to go back to US prices?!!?

I have gained a few pounds. I haven’t been my usual weight since the beginning of the trip and it’s gotten worse the last couple of weeks. I kept figuring I’d get bad food poisoning and that would help balance things out, but that hasn’t happened (fortunately – knock on wood). So I guess I should start to cut out the hot dogs, brownies with ice cream, and shakes. :( Maybe even do more exercising – yee-gods! There are days that I’m physically on the move a lot, but not enough.

Chinese New Year was more low key than I thought. The area is packed because of it and the beach was a zoo yesterday, but I thought there would be more celebratory things going on. I know on one day people are with their families at home. Cambodians leave the cities and come to places like this. We were lucky to get a room. We tried a few places and got the last one at Cool Banana. Even though this stretch is mostly foreigners it is still full.

After 6 weeks having a travel partner I’m solo again. I’ll have to spread my wings again and shift my mindset. The trip changes its focus and experience when you travel with someone. There are so many wonderful things about sharing the travels with someone, but it’s different. I’m looking forward to the challenge again and the ability to always do what I want. :) It is also time I see about earning some money or volunteering. Now that I'm alone again the local men will have to do business with me rather than ignoring me and just talking to Ben. But I'm sure I'll be an oddity again to most locals, like in Indonesia.

A few random thoughts before I sign off and go get a hot dog…

I’ve noticed in my travels that teachers in this part of the world get so much more respect than in the West. In Indonesia it is considered the most honorable and desirably position. Often when I tell people I’m a teacher there is a respect in their eyes that is usually lacking in the US. In the US some people respect it and realize how much work it takes, but I also get the “oh, how nice” kind of response. And then we have the insulting phrase, “people who can’t do teach.” With this attitude no wonder our system is failing in so many ways. In countries where education is not automatically given and is hard (and expensive) to come by the value of teachers is recognized and not taken for granted.

I’ve noticed in my travels in Asia that there are not many Americans. I meet many Europeans, especially Dutch, British, Aussie, and German. I even meet more Canadians than Americans and there population is 1/10 of ours. Ben, who is Canadian, pointed out that fewer Americans hold passports than Canadians. I don’t know what the explanation is – though many theories come to mind. It also surprised me that I meet so few Americans here because many of my friends have been to Asia and in general my friends and family like to travel internationally. But I seem to have carved out a social group that doesn’t reflect most of America in this way. I love traveling and would encourage anyone able to hit the road. There are just so many amazing things to see and people to meet – in the US and outside.

Finally, in Vietnam and Cambodia I’ve witnessed the sex trade that you always hear about. I had thought the public show of it wouldn’t be so obvious except in Thailand. But you see many white men (mostly retirement age, but some young) with young local women – and as a menu at a hotel said, proper local girls don’t go to bars and they wouldn’t meet a man without a chaperone. Ben and I went to a nightclub on the beach the other night and saw several workers trying to find business and in Vietnam he had prostitutes approaching him. You see the pairs at the beaches, on the sleeper buses, everywhere. I’m sure the numbers will be greater in Thailand, but it’s obvious here. Laos is really trying to prevent the sex trade and seem to be fairly successful.

The men just really disgust me and I worry for the women. They might be doing it by choice as it is more lucrative than most jobs in these poor countries or they might be slaves. The sex slave trade is so huge and justice is rare. The sex trade also is a clear visible division that is felt is so many other ways while visiting here. The have and have nots and these groups being generally divided by nationality and race. And the haves frequently exploiting the have nots or at the very least being the beneficiaries of the differences. Just by the random chance of where we are born so much is determined by the history that came before.

Enough writing and reflecting... I hope you enjoyed the entry and remain patient while I fumble along with these public computers. I looked into buying a netbook here, but they are more expensive than home and you only get a pirated version of Windows. I was assured it would work in all of Cambodia – how helpful! :) But once I’m back in Singapore I’ll get a new netbook and will update more.

Cheers!